Let's Eat
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Sofia
Sofia’s charm does
justice to authentic Greek food
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The combination is
intentionally irresistible. The charming
verandas, stone archways and fireplaces invite
you to sit down, eat and drink. “I like to say
that I create the appetite, and she satisfies
it,” joked Sofia Papastamelos.
At Sofia Restaurant, she is responsible for the
décor, and her sister Angela Diamantis is the
food and service coordinator.
Family, talent – and certainly being Greek – has
had a lot to do with the success of Sofia, a
bay-view establishment in Margate.
Traditional al fresco dining is offered on an
outdoor patio in the warm weather months, when
patrons dine underneath the red-clay tile roof
among urns filled with colorful flowers and lush
greenery that spills out across the natural
stone pavers.
But at this time of year, large French doors
that reveal the patio offer a tease and pleasant
view of the outdoors. In the meantime, multiple
indoor fireplaces set the mood.
Sofia also features a bar that is designed
around a tree decorated with a variety of softly
lit colored glass lanterns. Wines are displayed
behind oversized arched metal gates.
Yes, the look is divine. Yet it’s comfortable,
too.
At Sofia Restaurant, which is named for a family
matriarch a few generations removed, the intent
is to provide a place for family and friends to
stay awhile. Linger.
To that end, executive chef Michael Giraldi
prepares a variety of Greek fare, particularly
the fresh fish for which Sofia is known.
Branzino, for example, is imported from the
Mediterranean. (See Customer Favorites.)
In the kitchen, another clear Greek influence is
the use of a “yiouvetsi.” This fired terracotta
pot is traditionally used for cooking meat,
poultry or seafood with pasta. Diamantis trained
the staff on using the pot, which she said
preserves and holds in the flavors.
She wouldn’t do without it.
“I can remember my great-grandmother used them,”
said Diamantis. “Terra cotta cooking evolved
because they didn’t have electric or gas
stoves. Instead they used stone or stucco
ovens, fueled by burning wood.”
Family technique and influence can be found
throughout the menu at Sofia. A Persian chicken
dish is served on a sword, for example.
In addition to the expected Greek fare, Giraldi
has developed a few surprises for the winter
menu, including duck and bison. He said that
when preparing game, he most often pairs it with
a port wine reduction.
Giraldi, who has 20 years’ restaurant
experience, has worked in Philadelphia and South
Jersey. He began working in the business at the
original Mama Ventura’s in Berlin.
“At that time the real Mama Ventura was still in
the kitchen. She was rolling pasta -- her and
Aunt Rita,” he recalled. Giraldi worked his way
up from busboy to waiter to working on the
line.
Today the Philadelphia-born Giraldi heads up the
staff at Sofia, where he looks like he could be
family. The rapport between Giraldi,
Papastamelos and Diamantis would have you
believe they were related. The blood brother to
the power sisters is local physician Tom
Papastamelos of Shore Memorial Hospital, Sofia’s
twin brother and a silent partner in the
restaurant.
Sofia is the former site of Zoom Bar and Grill,
which underwent more than one year of
renovations. The building has earned the
distinction of a beautification award from the
city of Margate.
Prior to the Sofia project, the sisters managed
Baron’s Steakhouse in Berlin. They said they
are working on relocating and making Atlantic
County their home. Giraldi, who lives in
Washington Township, said he hopes to do the
same.
If you go:
Sofia
Restaurant
9314 Amherst Ave., Margate
(609) 822-9111
Open 3 p.m.
to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; noon
to 10 p.m. Sunday Appetizers and salads
$6 to $19
Dinners $22
to $45
Nightly
specials, bar, live music Friday and
Saturday
Credit cards
accepted
Banquet and
catering available
Tips
and Tidbits
“Tonight Show” host Jay Leno once
mentioned Sofia’s on his show. A silent
partner in Sofia’s is an infectious
disease doctor at Shore Memorial
Hospital; the irony was not lost on
Leno, who made reference to it. The
family didn’t know about Leno’s comment
until the phone started ringing the next
day. It made for good conversation and
advertising.
If you’re interested in cooking with a
terra cotta pot, or “yiouvetsi” at home,
Diamantis said Sofia orders from
www.surlatable.com.
Diamantis offered a healthy cooking tip
for sautéing, grilling or frying:
substitute olive oil for butter or
margarine.
Chef Michael Giraldi has been recognized
for cooking achievement in the area. In
1999, his establishment Michael’s
Continental Cuisine in Voorhees was
named best restaurant in South Jersey by
Ed Hitzel. He also placed third in
Philadelphia’s Cook in a Book contest.
At Sofia, Giraldi occasionally offers an
evening special of a five-course
tasting.
For slicing vegetables and potatoes,
Giraldi prefers using a handheld tool
called a mandolin.
Giraldi said coriander is his favorite
spice: whole coriander is frequently
used for encrusting fish and chicken;
ground coriander is a staple in most of
his sauces. |
Customer
favorites
Branzini (Lavraki)
($35) – Fresh Mediterranean white fish
with moist, tender flakes, grilled whole
“latholemono,” with lemon, thyme, capers
and olive oil
Royal Dorado (Tsipoura) ($33) – Firm,
low-fat flesh, with a delicate, mild
flavor, also prepared whole latholemono
Seafood Plaki ($32) – Shrimp and cod
baked with tomato, olives, herbs, feta
cheese and a splash of ouzo in a
terracotta pot
Taramosalata ($7) – A Mediterranean dip
of Greek caviar mousse with red onions
and capers served with pita bread – a
family recipe from Maria Papastamelos,
Sofia, Tom and Angela’s mother, who
lives in Galloway Township
Scallops Sofia ($12) – An appetizer of
kataifi-wrapped scallops in a cognac
reduction sauce, served with asparagus
tips, roasted red pepper coulis and
aioli
Horiatiki Salad ($7) – Traditional Greek
salad of tomatoes, crisp romaine,
cucumber, scallions, olives and feta
cheese. Feta cheese at Sofia is imported
from the mountains of Greece. “I refuse
to use anything less than I would in my
own home,” said Diamantis.
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