ATLANTIC CITY -- The Knife & Fork, one of the oldest establishments in Atlantic City, was originally built as a gentlemen’s club in 1912.  Now it is owned by Frank Dougherty, whose family owns Dock’s Oyster House, the oldest restaurant in Atlantic City.  Following a tradition that began with his grandfather, Dougherty bought the Knife and Fork in 2005, completely renovated the building, and reopened it as a white tablecloth dining establishment.  

A graduate of Cornell University with a degree in hotel and restaurant management, Dougherty worked in Manhattan for 14 years appraising hotels and doing feasibility studies.  He moved back to this area in 1999 to help with the family business. When his father passed away he stayed to help his mother, who is still active in the business.

Eventually he began to look for another location to expand.  When the Knife and Fork became available, he saw a lot of potential and made a deal with the previous owner.  The building has four floors and a basement.  It now has a new roof and has been completely repainted, with a mural done by Sue Daily, an artist who paints on wallpaper before applying it to the walls.  Daily’s work can be enjoyed in the second-floor dining room, which is also home to the original bar that was downstairs when it was a gentlemen’s club.  During prohibition the bar was removed, and the downstairs was converted to strictly dining.  A porch area was added in 1970.

A ladies lounge that was on the second floor is now a dining area with etched glass windows through which to enjoy the ocean view.  The floors are hardwood and tile, and the chairs have padded leather seats. The tables sport ivory linens and crystal goblets.

The new mahogany bar on the first floor is new and wide enough to enjoy eating a meal at the bar.  If you look up the ceiling is pressed tin.  There is fine dining downstairs with a working fireplace in the Hearth Room.

Dougherty can cater to groups from 14 to 100, and he’ll close the restaurant to the public for parties who wish to rent it for an event. 

The building was built to last with basement walls 28 inches thick.  Pictures in the Hearth Room show the history of the building, including fixtures, lobster-eating contests and a gentleman standing on his head.  Electric was added in 1930.

The kitchen is rebuilt and configured with a wood-burning grill. Dougherty said the Knife and Fork is a dinner restaurant except on Friday, when lunch is served.  The slogan he’d like diners to remember is “Friday at the Fork.”  Sommelier Pierre Angelie Dee assists with wine recommendations.  Reservations are suggested but not required.  Dress is business casual.

To comment on this story e-mail Toni Evans at Toni.Evans[at]catamaranmedia.com.